Babylock Ellure ESL

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BabyLock Ellure ESL
Babylock_Arm.jpg

Sewing Machine with Computerized Embroidery

The Babylock Elluré ESL is a full function sewing machine with utility and decorative stitches, as well as computer-controlled embroidery. Native embroidery designs include three text fonts, a few dozen “images”, and some “frames” that can be used to create appliques. It can also accept a (proprietary format) card with purchased or user-provided designs in PES format - a special card reader is used to transfer files onto this card. The machine has a single needle, and the user will manually change thread colors as required during the design stitching.

An embroidery arm (shown separately) slides onto the machine and the hoop gets attached to the embroidery arm. The embroidery arm moves the hoop in a computer-controlled X-Y manner while the design is being stitched. The usable space inside the hoop is approximately 4” wide x 6” tall, although the machine is designated as a 5"x7" machine.

Usage Instructions

  • Detailed usage instructions for the BabyLock Ellure ESL computerized embroidery machine with many photos - includes tools/supplies list, set-up, file transfer, operation, and "tear-down".
  • The manufacturer has removed their online manuals, but the Quick Reference Guide and the full Instruction and Reference Guide are available on the Committee drive in CreativeArts/Embroidery/
  • One page summary of key dangers and cautions. Intended to be presented with machine as laminated card.

Dallas Makerspace Logos for Stitching

Three sizes of DMS Logos are available (free of charge) for stitching. All are programmed with three layers; one red, one black and one blue/navy. It is not necessary to rethread between the layers if you don't choose to change the colors. The 3.5" wide version is shown here; the ruler image is not part of the stitched design. The logos are identical except for size.

3.5 inch wide DMS logo
File Width Height Stitches Approx. stitching time*
DMS 2.5 Wide.PES 2.5" 0.53" 1751 4 minutes
DMS 3.5 Wide.PES 3.48" 0.73" 2364 6 minutes
DMS 5 Wide.PES 5.0" 1.05" 3203 10 minutes
  • Stitching time is actual needle time and does not include time to change thread

Designs

  • The usable space inside the hoop is in "portrait" format. Once your design is downloaded to the transfer card, using PED-Basic as described in the Detailed Usage Instructions, it can be rotated or flipped. However, if your design is 4x6 landscape format, you will be unable to transfer it to the card. If this occurs, use the Wilcom TrueSizer web software to rotate your design 90 degrees (available free with sign-up). You will have to stitch the design sideways but in this way you will be able to get the design onto the machine.
  • We have simple, easy-to-use embroidery digitizing (i.e., programming) software called SewArt64. Here is a good introductory tutorial on how to program a design using the SewArt64 software. There are several other tutorials available from the software manufacturer's site (at the very bottom of the page).
  • If you want to use the SewArt64 software, here are some suggestions:
1 Sit at an embroidery machine (either ours or yours) and watch a few designs being stitched. You can either use something that's native on the machine or download something for free (search for digital embroidery pattern free). That will give you a good feel for good versus bad stitching strategies (order, fill, etc.)
2 SewArt doesn't distinguish well between colors with subtle differences. When you design your image, exaggerate the colors so that SewArt can distinguish them. For instance, in a design with two similar shades of red you might make one red and one brown in your .bmp image. You can still stitch them with the correct colors.
3 Start with importing your image in .bmp format. SewArt tends to think that your image has way more colors than it really does and starting in .bmp seems to help that. Make sure you use the wizard or the menu to reduce your design to the correct number of colors. Use the Posterize tool (icon looks like a head) and then the Merge/Despeckle tool (icon looks like bricks) before proceeding with anything else.
4 Even if you think you have a single color design, you might want to digitize it in multiple colors. You can always stitch it in a single color if it is digitized for multiple colors, but the reverse is not true.
5 Satin stitching large fill areas can be finicky. Designers use a variety of techniques of underlying structure stitching, and stitch lengths/directions to avoid pucker, pull, etc. SewArt has a basic underlying structure option you can select, more complex push/pull management is not available. You may find limitations if your design is a big solid block of filled stitching.
6 Test stitch your design on our machine at the space and adjust as necessary.
  • Sulky brand 40 weight Rayon thread is the brand of thread most commonly available to retail consumers. Sulky publishes two thread reference charts; one showing a picture of the colors, and one showing the RGB values of each thread for more precise programming.

Patches

Embroidering a patch will be easier if you use a “patch blank”.

Program the patch

  1. Program the perimeter of your patch as an appliqué.
  2. An appliqué automatically generates three separate layers of stitching, one on top of the other.
    1. A placement layer, typically a straight stitch.
    2. A tacking layer, typically a zig-zag stitch
    3. A border stitch of whatever type you choose. A dense satin stitch will provide the best coverage of your fabric edge
  3. In SewArt64, this is either AB5 or AC5 depending on your preference, with a separation of 1 and a stitch length of 25 – 40.
  4. The middle appliqué layer is automatically programmed as a different color to force a stop in the stitching; stitch with the appropriate color not what the program says.

Prepare the patch blank

  1. Hoop up just the patch fabric (without stabilizer)
  2. Stitch the placement layer, using thread that matches your patch fabric
  3. While the fabric is still in the hoop, liberally apply Fray Check, from the stitching line outwards about 1/8”. It’s better to go farther than you think you need.
  4. Apply to both the front and the back of the fabric to ensure it’s saturated.
  5. After the Fray Check is completely dry, take the fabric out of the hoop and using a very sharp scissors, trim your fabric about 3/32” outside of the stitching line. This trim distance should be a little less than half of the border stitching width.

Stitch the patch

  1. Hoop up just the stabilizer. Stabilizer is available in black(ish) or white. Tear-away stabilizer may work more easily but may not be available in your color of choice.
  2. Stitch the appliqué placement layer.
  3. Using a small squirt of a fabric spray adhesive, carefully place your prepared patch on top of the placement layer.
  4. Starting with the appliqué tacking layer, stitch the rest of the patch.
  5. Remove from the hoop and very carefully trim the stabilizer as close to the stitches as you can get without cutting the stitches. (or tear it off if you have tear-away stabilizer).